Folks there is no need for anything so complicated! Base, Sport, and other open spoke wheels such as SSRs are readily brake-bled right through the front wheel. The rears are easily reached from behind the tire (with any wheel), no need at all to yank any panels or remove any wheels. For the rear you just lay down along the car with your feet aiming foward. You can access the nipple (!) with your tool (!) via the space behind the tire. It's not that hard.
* Use an 11 mm closed end wrench, F/R. About 5-10 bucks, you probably don't have one of these. A 7/16 or an adjustable will work too, in pressing times.
* Use a 1/4 inch vinyl hose, a 4 foot length sells for 75 cents from local hardware stores.
* Do this on a level surface, e-brake off, neutral...that way you can roll the car if needed (for access through the spokes) by grabbing the tire and turning it.
* It's not that critical what corner you bleed first believe it or not...most folks do RR first then LR then RF then LF.
* You pop off the dust cap...pop on the wrench...pop on the hose...position hose such that the hose goes up a distance and then into a bucket. I use a car wash bucket.
* Keep an eye on the hose to nipple connection as you go along...brake fluid harms paint.
* When you "crack" the nipple open, fluid will come out slowly...this is gravity bleeding. You can bleed the whole car like this if desired!
* Remove the reservoir cover and the filter gizmo....I like to flush out fluid by sucking out (turkey baster) the brake fluid reservoir's contents under the LH triangular service cover...then refill the reservoir way up high with new fluid...cap the reservoir and brake fluid container...then bleed keeping an eye on the fluid level after each corner, refill as required. No fluid onto the paint = forbidden! Flush with water instantly should this occur, have a wet sponge handy.
* By having a long hose with lots of hose higher than the nipple, you can one-man bleed. You depress the pedal most of the way slowly. Then hold it down a few seconds (to allow any bubbles to rise in the vinyl hose)...then slowly raise your foot until the pedal is raised...so only fluid can reenter the caliper, and not fluid with bubbles....repeat until your corner has clean, light colored fluid (old fluid gets dark looking)...close nipple, remove hose, have a paper towel nearby to ensure no fluid from the hose gets on your wheels or body paint...lower the hose first to help it drain, recap the nipple.
* You can bleed the ABS pretty well (it stays bled unless major parts were removed) by finishing your bleed...then driving the car getting into the ABS a bunch...then rebleeding.
* This last is why a simple bleed procedure is a good idea. OMG get out the ramps yank each tire, floor jack, tools, jack stands...AGAIN??!!? Skip it. Do it the easy way instead.
* When you change pads many folks just press or screw the pads back in...this forces old fluid (and any bubbles) back toward the ABS unit and master cylinder...you can crack the hosed bleeder at such times to prevent that...it's not a big deal though.
* The whole thing described here takes 20-30 minutes per four wheel bleed, taking your time.
* The black rubber front nipple caps crack fairly soon, generic caps are fine - I use black vacuum caps. The rears last fine - they are mainstream calipers from mediocre Dodge sedans / early Viper BTW and so are made of better rubber.
* For most cars, especially those not driven much, the rears are the most important to bleed. Since the heat levels are low out back compared to the fronts unmaintained cars tend to experience frozen pistons out back mostly due to water and contaminated fluid. For the track the fronts are more important - to avoid fluid boiling with hot brakes.
) I appreciate all your technical posts here.
